I was reading Sear's & Mace's 2008 meta-study of the effect of kinship on offspring. I noticed that they were talking about calories rather than nutrition, in reference to the work by Hawkes. That surprised me, given the role that meat nutrients play in chimpanzees and in the rise of hominids, especially the expansion of the human brain.
Claude Sonnet 4.6 agreed:
What's striking is that the nutritional anthropology literature on hunter-gatherer diets (Cordain, Eaton, etc.) does engage seriously with micronutrients — the argument that animal matter satisfies requirements for protein and many essential micronutrients while freeing gut space for carbohydrate-rich plant foods AJCN is well established in that parallel literature. But this reasoning seems not to have been systematically imported into the behavioral ecology debate about paternal provisioning versus signaling. The two literatures appear to be operating largely independently of each other, which may explain why the Hawkes critique lands so cleanly in the provisioning debate: it's aiming at a caloric target that was never the strongest version of the provisioning argument anyway.
And
Meat, and particularly organ meat and marrow, provides bioavailable iron (heme iron, with absorption rates several times higher than plant-sourced non-heme iron), zinc, vitamin B12, and phospholipids in forms that are simply not substitutable by gathered plant foods in most environments. The question "does big-game hunting feed the family?" gets a very different answer if you're asking about preventing iron-deficiency anemia in reproductive-age women and weaned toddlers than if you're asking about raw caloric adequacy. Gathered tubers and seeds can cover calories; they can't easily substitute for heme iron.
If the nutritional story is about micronutrients rather than calories, then the grandmother's contribution (gathered carbohydrates, caloric buffer for weaned children) and the male hunter's contribution (intermittent but micronutrient-dense meat) are actually complementary rather than competing explanations for offspring survival. Hawkes sets them up as competing — either dad is provisioning or he's showing off — but if the provisioning is micronutrient-specific and the grandmother covers caloric provisioning, both can be true simultaneously and the "show-off" framing becomes less necessary to explain observed hunting patterns.
Further investigation with Claude's assistence revealed that Hawkes in 2022 admitted as much, while continuing to look mostly at the calory-sharing aspect.
Moreover, as meat provides important nutrients not easily obtained from other sources (see, Milton, 2003; Tennie, Gilby, & Mundry, 2009; Watts, 2020), small quantities of meat may provide benefits to the procurer even when widely shared.
After all, the paper is called "A cost for signaling: do Hadza hunter-gatherers forgo calories to show-off in an experimental context?" -- which is probably asking the wrong question.